Carlos Cortés never thought he’d work for his family’s 95-year-old chocolate manufacturing business, which started in the Dominican Republic. But as he watched the effects of gentrification on Puerto Rican and Dominican communities in the City over the years, he decided to take the success of his family’s restaurant in San Juan, Puerto Rico, stateside.
“What I've seen in the City is that there’s a real lack of representation in businesses and brands that do justice to the Puerto Rican and Dominican communities,” says Cortés. “I was motivated by changing that narrative.”
Today, Carlos is the creative director of the Chocolate Cortés brand and the company’s South Bronx restaurant, which he launched in 2021. His decision to open there was a no-brainer, considering the borough’s large Puerto Rican and Dominican populations.
“I felt it was important to come here to the Bronx where we have this very strong presence,” Cortés says. “The Bronx is almost like that last frontier of the City, where you really get that raw, cultural melting pot of authenticity that people identify New York with.”
Chocobar Cortés celebrates its Dominican and Puerto Rican heritage with specialty dishes from the islands. Think: sorullites de maiz (cheese-stuffed corn fritters), alcapurrias filled with meat and, of course, their signature hot chocolate served with a cube of cheese for dipping—a popular Latino tradition.
Cortés says, “When you look at the impact that we have in culture, like music, entertainment and even in politics, it’s pretty impactful for being two small islands from the Caribbean. So I thought, Why can't we have that with food?”
We spoke to Cortés about his restaurant, the Bronx and carrying on his family’s legacy.
What made you decide to join the family business?
Carlos Cortés: I was actually in medical school and that was around the time the restaurant [in Puerto Rico] had opened, and it was starting to do really well. And I started thinking that we really [needed a New York location].
How did your family feel about opening a restaurant in NYC?
CC: They were supportive. They understand the importance of what the [Puerto Rican] diaspora represents and celebrate the brand and tradition.
Chocolate martini
Chocolate is the star of all your dishes. How is it infused into every meal?
CC: Chocolate is used as an ingredient in different ways. Sometimes it’s really subtle, like chocolate salt in a margarita or chocolate sauce paired with our ham croquettes, which creates an interesting sweet-and-savory combination. We have a chocolate ketchup, hot sauce and even a rub for steaks. It’s used like any other ingredient but not in an overpowering way,
How much of the restaurant is influenced by Puerto Rican and Dominican culture?
CC: The idea behind [the design] is to celebrate where we come from. Before we came to New York, we did a whole rebranding of Chocobar Cortés; the challenge was to celebrate its history and tradition but in a fresh, contemporary way. And that rebrand is what guided the design of the space. A lot of the influences were from the colonial architecture you see in Puerto Rico, such as the arches and the checkered floors. Even our bar was inspired by the wooden doors you find in Old San Juan.
What has the community’s response been to Chocobar Cortes?
CC: The reception has been overwhelmingly positive here in the Bronx. A lot of people come in and they will tell you that they grew up with the Chocobar Cortés brand. They’ll take their first sip of chocolate and say, “It’s just like my grandmother used to make it.” Our chocolate is anchored in people’s minds as this thing that evokes a lot of very powerful and beautiful memories of their childhood, Puerto Rico or their family.
Don Ignacio cocktail
What are some of your favorite menu items?
CC: My favorite cocktail is the Don Ignacio. It’s one of our signature cocktails named after my father and grandfather [both named Ignacio]. It’s an old-fashioned made with rum and has a chocolate rim. As for food, our quesitos [a Puerto Rican puffed pastry] are made in-house. Another favorite is the Mallorca, a Puerto Rican sweet bread you can’t really find in New York. We use it for sandwiches; one of my favorites is a ham and manchego cheese sandwich with guava butter.
What are your favorite Latino businesses in New York City
CC: Coppelia is a 24-hour Cuban diner in Chelsea, and every time I go, there are always all sorts of people—it’s great. I'm also a big fan of Devocion, a Colombian farm-to-bar coffee shop and roaster in Manhattan and Brooklyn. We serve their coffee here at the restaurant.
Chocolate grilled cheese
What does the Bronx mean to you?
CC: There’s so much that comes from the Bronx that doesn’t get recognized. I mean, it's a cultural powerhouse; this is the birthplace of hip-hop music, graffiti [though some say Philadelphia] and breakdancing. It’s where AOC [US Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez] and [Supreme Court Justice Sonia] Sotomayor are from. There's no denying that they have been very impactful and important people for the history and future of this country. The Bronx is the future. This is more what the real US looks like because of the diversity that we have.
Describe the Bronx in three words.
CC: Raw, authentic and resilient.
